Villa Imaginaire

Maubourguet Friday 15th October.

I had heard from a cyclist that the Chambre d’hōtes-Villa Imaginaire in Maubourguet was legendary. Apparently the hosts were exceptional, delicious meals were served for guests who all ate together around a huge dining room table. As I had just stayed two nights in Marciac at the “Tower Gîte” I felt I would be undeservedly spoiling myself and too costly to stay at Villa Imaginaire where the minimum price to stay was 35€. Demi-pension (dinner and breakfast included) was the only option. When I attempted to make a booking for the cheaper option I was informed that it was closed. I phoned the number given in the guide for Villa Imaginaire and got Maximilien, the owner on the line and asked him if I could just have a bed without the meals being included. Although he didn’t say it outright I gathered he wasn’t too keen on the idea and suggested, “Just come, don’t worry, you can pay whatever you want.” From the moment I stepped in the door I felt very welcome, was taken to the garden, offered tea, soft drinks, wine or beer for refreshment and got chatting to the other guests. Later on that evening I was introduced to other Camino walkers, François and Erhard and a couple from the States who had previously completed other Camino routes. I soon began to understand that a stay at Villa Imaginaire was not just for food and a bed it was geared for guests to have a wonderful experience. An opportunity to meet people with fascinating stories, to be royally fed and be provided with cozy lodgings. After a good night’s sleep and a hearty breakfast I felt paying 35€ was a pittance for all that had been provided. To cap it all the stamp given in my credential was a real wax impression of the Camino symbol, a scallop shell. François, Erhard and myself set off in high spirits. I was so grateful that the place I had originally wanted to stay was closed. François opted to stop at a Gîte in the early afternoon, Erhard and myself continued on to our next stop in Anoye, 23kms from Maubourguet.

Anoye to Morlaàs 15kms

Sunday 17th of October

I had tried to phone the number given in the guide for the municipal camping site but got no reply. I left a message but that also did not yield a reply. Erhardt and myself decided that we would go past the campsite/Pilgrim’s refuge and see if we could get access and if not we would share a room in a hotel. We left at 7:00am as being Sunday the two supermarkets in Morlaàs would be open only until 12:30 and we had 15Kms to cover. We left The Gite in Anoye in the dark. Fortunately the the first part was along the road and my headlamp worked really well to see where we were going and verify we were on the right track by being able to find the red and white stripes indicating the way. Walking while the sun rose and seeing, feeling the dawn was magnificent. As the stars faded and clouds became visible the changing hues from pink to orange and white was well worth having started when it was still dark. Mostly we walked in silence only sometimes mentioning to each other our appreciation of the entire space and environment around us. We reached the outskirts of Morlaàs at 10:30 well in time to catch the open Intermarche supermarket, bought supplies and found a bench on the church square to have an early lunch. We had not stopped along the 15km stretch except to take a pee. A singing choir could be clearly heard emanating from the church. There was a mass in progress and when it ended we were still in the middle of having our picnic and were suddenly surrounded by people coming out of the church. We were ignored by the churchgoers most likely looking like hobos eating our lunch straight out of its packaging. Then when almost everyone had dispersed a guy came up to me apologising for his indiscretion and asked if we were pilgrims and we got chatting. He had a lot of questions about where we had come from, where we were going, how long had we been walking and how long would it take us to get to Santiago. I really enjoyed chatting to him and was pleased he approached me. I was glad to show my guide book with maps oand show him how we were navigating the route.

Well satisfied we headed off to see if we could get access to the Gite/camping/Pilgrim refuge. It was all closed! And sign up saying the campsite was closed sinced the 1^st of October. A bit dissapointed we decided to go and see if we could share a room in a hotel. Even though only midday we were not up to walking a further 20Kms to the next Gite. The I spotted a tiny sign “Accueill Pelerins” which indicated to go around to the back of the locked campsite office. Through the windows we could see a kitchen with adjacent dormitory and beds. Erhardt tried the door and it was open! The heaters were on the fridge was equipped with soft drinks, there was a cupboard with sheets and blankets but all completely deserted. We scouted out the place and discovered access to the campsite showers toilets with area to do washing and….hot water. It did’nt take us long to decide that is where we would be staying the night.

The day was beautiful and sunny and with a table and bench outside it is everything we could hope for. How fortunate for us. We can spend the afternoon doing washing, relaxing and writing my journal.

Tomorrow I plan to walk 19kms to Lescar (Pau) then on Tuesday hitch to Anglet between Bayonne and Biarritz where I have booked an room through Airbnb with a coupon I had for being a “Superhost” Erhardt plans to continue on to Lacommande and the onto St Jean pied de Port.

In Pau the GR 653 takes a sharp turn south to Col du Somport. I want to carry on westward to the Atlantic coast and see what I will do from there. As yet I am undecided. From Bayonne to Santiago is around 800kms so I am nearing halfway.

Morlaàs to Lescar. The final stretch for me on the Via Tolosana/Voie d’Arles

Monday 18th of October.

In the morning we put our fee for staying at the deserted Municipal Gîte in an envelope and on our way out of town posted it in the letter box at the mayor’s office.

For the past 3 days Erhard and myself have been walking together. Today we covered 21kms to Lescar in 5 hours. At 72 years of age Erhard walks like a locomotive. If I stop to take a pee, in an instant he is 200metres ahead. When I take a quick photo he is suddenly 100metres further on. Today after walking for 3 hours I had to remind him that perhaps we should take break and have something to drink. He set out on his grand walk from Nice as previously (few years ago) he had walked from Vienna to Nice. This time his walk is to Burgos. He inspires me with endless fascinating stories about long distance hiking in Germany, Austria, France and even Israel. While I appreciated the advantages of maintaining a fast walking tempo with Erhard I sometimes felt inhibited about stopping and chatting to passers-by or dawdling to admire the scenery as inevitably I ended up lagging behind.

We found the Vival superette in Lescar at 12:41, 4 minutes before it closed which was fortunate as it allowed us to buy lunch and eat together before Erhard continued on for another 15kms to Lacommande. But for me this is the end of line along this particular route. Tomorrow I hitch-hike to Anglet (near Biarritz) where I have booked a Airbnb room for 3 days. Three days in which to consider whether or not I want to continue my walk for another 800kms to Santiago.

I look forward to visiting Biarritz for the first time, I’ve been told it is a beautiful seaside city. Above all I want to give my feet a treat, walk barefoot on the beach, smell the salty air and feel the magnificence of the Atlantic Ocean.