Tuesday 28th September.

Jean-Maurice and I continued our dinner conversation at breakfast and left the Gite together. He stopped a bit further on at Auberge La Resse to hook up with the three Belgians he had met the day before. I continued on alone thinking they would catch me up. After having an energy bar and tea around 11:30 I began a slow climb of a steep hill. Slowly but surely putting one foot in front of the other I heard clump clump clump clump and the rattling of pots and pans coming up behind me. Turning around cost too much energy so I continued walking until whoever it was came alongside me and would no doubt speed past me. His large backpack was loaded. Mattress, sleeping bag, stove, pots and a large water bottle dangling on the outside. “Gee,” I said as he past me, “That is quite a load you are carrying and moving quite briskly.” “Yes,” he replied panting, “I am going to Castres today, another 35kms, and am on my way to Auch.” (Castres to Auch 147kms) “And I see you are camping out,” I remarked wanting to give him the impression I was full of admiration. He seemed to be on a mission and didn’t answer. Before he strode on I asked him his name. “Xavier,” he replied. Upon reaching the top of the hill I stopped for a leisurely picnic lunch then continued on to Angles arriving in the central square 2:00pm. The village was dilapidated and desolate. I had booked a place to stay but could not find the Auberge “Chez Fati.” When I called I got an answering machine and there was no one around to ask. I sat there for awhile not sure what to do. Then Jean-Maurice turned up with his three Belgian friends. Jean-Maurice introduced me to the two brothers, Jeannot and Pierre and friend Philippe and I sat down with them while they had their lunch. They were going to a Gite in Bouisset, 8kms further on, apparently a very nice place and asked me if I wanted to join them. I was glad to and immediately left a message cancelling my reservation. Then out from behind a statue, Xavier unexpectedly appeared and declared he would be joining us to Bouisset. He had been sitting there, out of sight the whole time since I had arrived. Hearing the six of us chatting a very kind lady in her 80’s opened the Epicerie, (grocery store). Jean-Maurice and myself bought supplies for a dinner and breakfast the next morning. The three Belgians had booked the Gite in Bouisset including dinner and breakfast. The six of us ambled along and I spoke to Philippe for a large portion of the afternoon. The three Belgians were experienced Camino walkers and Philippe had also cycled a route to Santiago. I was amazed how many pilgrims I met had already completed different Camino routes.

Brigitte welcomed us at the Gite in a most friendly and helpful way. Jean Maurice and I pooled our supplies of tuna, pesto and pasta and shared it with Xavier. The rooms were very tidy and the Gite was well maintained. Brigitte went to great lengths to find six cold beers then cooked and served dinner to the Belgians. After dinner a stroll around revealed a tidy well-maintained village in contrast to Angles just down the road. The atmosphere in the village was pleasant, the streets were decorated with flower boxes and I was greeted by friendly inhabitants. Boisset was the end of the road for the three Belgians and in the morning they were going to catch a taxi to the nearest train station. That night I shared a room with Jean-Maurice and though I did not sleep very well I agreed to walk the 28kms to Castres with him. Xavier wanted to sleep in as he had been bivouacking and wanted to enjoy the luxury of a bed and restore his energy. Jean-Maurice and myself left on a chilly and misty morning. Jean-Maurice chatted almost non-stop about Feldenkrais, his wife and two sons.

We got so engrossed in conversation and got lost in the misty forest. We sat down for a cup of thyme tea from my Thermos before retracing our steps. Jean-Maurice began an emotional story about the final days leading up to his mother’s death. While recounting his memories tears welled up in his eyes. A driving a tractor passed us and asked if we were lost. He knew we had got lost and admitted it saying it happens often. In a very southern French accent he explained how to get back onto the path. Just before re-joining the GR653 we came across Xavier accompanied by an elderly lady. After his lie-in Xavier also got lost and met the lady who lived in a nearby hamlet and was taking a walk. She had offered to guide him back onto the right path. The four of us walked on though I hung back a little, glad to walk in silence for awhile, Jean-Maurice made interesting but non stop conversation.

In the afternoon Jean-Maurice was suffering from extreme blistering on his feet and was painfully slentering along. I suggested we sing along to “Le Vent Nous Portera” by Noir Desire. The wind will carry us. He got it playing on his phone and kept it on until we reached a pharmacy on the outskirts of Castres. Jean-Maurice had heard that Madeleine’s house in Castres was highly recommended and had already booked. I phoned and booked for Xavier and myself, all three of us opting to have dinner and breakfast there. With the blisters on his feet Jean-Maurice was relieved Castres was his final stop. Next morning he was going to take a train to Grenoble.

Madeleine is indeed as we had heard-a woman with a heart of gold. There was cold beer and cookies when we arrived and lovingly tended Jean-Maurice’s blisters. That evening she cooked a splendid meal. For starters she served melon and ham followed by filet mignon with quinoa and fenouille gratin, there was plenty of wine to have with the cheese platter and dessert was a home-made pear tart rounded off with a herbal tea.

There were three beds in the attic two single and one double. Jean-Maurice got the double bed in the alcove and I shared the other space with Xavier. In spite of being tired out after all the day’s excitement and having covered a distance of thirty kilometres I didn’t sleep very well. The bed was too short for me and had a solid oak head and footboard. I kept bumping my head and hitting my feet on the footboard. Eventually I put the duvet cover on the floor and got fully clothed (there were no blankets) in an effort to get a few hours’ sleep.

September 30th

I got up feeling weary, a hearty breakfast revived me. I said my goodbyes to Jean-Maurice and Madeleine, (our hostess in Castres). I had known Jean–Maurice only a few days and had spent one night at Madeleine’s house yet I felt so sad leaving them. I left with Xavier around 9:00am. We needed to find a cash machine so he could return the money I lent him to pay Madeleine. With that done we set off walking. At the first intersection, Xavier wanted to go one way and me the other, so we parted company. I had enjoyed the days being with the three Belgians and Jean-Maurice but now looked forward to having the day to myself. Solitary and free.

Last night I had the gîte, Ferme équestre d’En Goût to myself or so I thought. While eating a warmed up pre-prepared supermarket dinner a few people came into the gîte asking if this was where the meeting was taking place, I sent them to the main house. Then while still having my dinner around twenty people turned up and announced they would be having their meeting around the ample dining room table in the gîte. I did not mind at all however the sleeping quarters is right above the dining room. Anyhow not too happy I gathered my things and went upstairs. Having slept badly the night before in Castres in a bed that was way too small for me I got into bed at 21:30. At 22:30 they were still prattling directly below. I went down to complain but they were unsympathetic. Eventually around 23:45 they left me in pace. Getting a good night’s sleep has often been difficult, as every night is in a new environment.

The morning mist blanketed the landscape, the air was fresh and cool. Gradually the mist dissolved and a glorious day ensued. The paths and tracks today had many stretches along tarred roads but there were also quiet roads with only an occasional car passing. I came across a couple hiking in the opposite direction we stopped and chatted for awhile. They were brother and sister, very friendly and gave me advice to go to the camping site in Revel which I did as I had no response from the municipal Gîte after leaving a telephone message. I stocked up on supplies in the delightful village of Soreze. Parma ham, tomatoes and bread for lunch, a pre-prepared Tanjine meal for dinner as well as yoghurt and fruit for tomorrow’s breakfast. I arrived at the campsite at 14:30 and was shown a dormitory that sleeps sixteen but I am the only guest.

On my way to Revel the next morning I greeted a gentleman cutting his hedge he gave a cheerful response and remarked what a beautiful day it was for walking, I agreed with him wholeheartedly and he went on to ask me if I knew the area at all. No I said, “Not at all, it is the very firt time I am passing through”. He volunteered to tell me a story about the history of the Canal du Midi which was very interesting. About ten minutes into his story I took off my backpack to listen more comfortably. When he had finished telling the story and about to go onto to the next one his wife came out saying he had a phone call which spared me the inconvenience of having to cut him short. As he departed he suggested I read, La Génie du L’eau by Paul Riquet-the story of the Canal du Midi.

I arrive in Revel the early afternoon so I can take my time showering washing my undies and socks, plan my next day’s trajectory and do some writing. I have been considering another way of saying babbling brook or gurgling stream, because the sounds of a cascading stream is so musical, enchanting and soothing. Perhaps a way to describe it would be a tranquinkiling stream because the sound is kind of a tranquil twinkling .

Saturday 2nd of October.

After two successive nights of not having slept well I was grateful to get a good night’s sleep at the campsite. The accommodation was in a pre-fab shelter with 8 bunk beds.

The morning market in Revel was in full swing and although I had just begun my day’s walk I took a relaxing moment on a terrace to have a coffee and soak in all the colourful sights of the bustling market. I decided not buy any food as I still had nuts and dried fruit for a lunchtime snack and my booking this evening includes dinner.

The tree lined path alongside the river, La Rigole de la plaine was delightful. Having only had a meagre lunch I looked forward to having a meal with my hosts tonight Gîte Ville Caline. Ségolène sent me a friendly WhatsApp message with precise details on how to find their house.

3rd of October

As she would not be there at my expected time of arrival, Ségolène sent me detailed directions on how to get to the Gîte Villa Caline. It was a pleasure to find the chalet had been beautifully prepared. I had a shower, did some washing and while having a beer on the terrace Cédric the host came for a chat and generously invited me to dine with the family in the main house. I had booked the option which included dinner and breakfast but felt privileged to share a meal with a lovely couple and their two young children. I was moved by their kindness and the extent to which Cédric and Ségolène went to make my stay comfortable and enjoyable. The next morning I left with a feeling of immense gratitude for having met such lovely people.

The 4th of October

After leaving Gîte Villa Caline in Saint-Paulet I followed the squiggly river side path which ran alongside La Rigole de la plaine until reaching Le canal du Midi. It felt like I had reached a significant milestone. From here on the road for pedestrians and cyclists is flat and wide. To reach my next overnight spot at La Goudille I needed to make slight detour of about 1km. It was well worth it. Danielle’s home is lovely and while having dinner together she told me that she had and her father had renovated the entire house themselves. I slept like a babe in the comfortable bed with down duvet. After lovely stay I re-joined the path along the canal en route to Ayguevives.

Sunday 17th of October

I had tried to phone the number given in the guide for the municipal camping site but got no reply. I left a message but that also did not yield a reply. Erhardt and myself decided that we would go past the campsite/Pilgrim’s refuge and see if we could get access and if not we would share a room in a hotel. We left at 7:00am as being Sunday the two supermarkets in Morlaàs would be open only until 12:30 and we had 15Kms to cover. We left The Gite in Anoye in the dark. Fortunately the the first part was along the road and my headlamp worked really well to see where we were going and verify we were on the right track by being able to find the red and white stripes indicating the way. Walking while the sun rose and seeing, feeling the dawn was magnificent.  As the stars faded and clouds became visible the changing hues from pink to orange and white was well worth having started when it was still dark. Mostly we walked in silence only sometimes mentioning to each other our appreciation of the entire space and environment around us. We reached the outskirts of Morlaàs at 10:30 well in time to catch the open Intermarche supermarket, bought supplies and found a bench on the church square to have an early lunch. We had not stopped along the 15km stretch except to take a pee. A singing choir could be clearly heard emanating from the church. There was a mass in progress and when it ended we were still in the middle of having our picnic and were suddenly surrounded by people coming out of the church. We were ignored by the churchgoers most likely looking like hobos eating our lunch straight out of its packaging. Then when almost everyone had dispersed a guy came up to me apologising for his indiscretion and asked if we were pilgrims and we got chatting. He had a lot of questions about where we had come from, where we were going, how long had we been walking and how long would it take us to get to Santiago. I really enjoyed chatting to him and was pleased he approached me. I was glad to show my guide book with maps oand show him how we were navigating the route.

Well satisfied we headed off to see if we could get access to the Gite/camping/Pilgrim refuge. It was all closed! And sign up saying the campsite was closed sinced the 1^st of October. A bit dissapointed we decided to go and see if we could share a room in a hotel. Even though only midday we were not up to walking a further 20Kms to the next Gite. The I spotted a tiny sign “Accueill Pelerins” which indicated to go around to the back of the locked campsite office. Through the windows we could see a kitchen with adjacent dormitory and beds. Erhardt tried the door and it was open! The heaters were on the fridge was equipped with soft drinks, there was a cupboard with sheets and blankets but all completely deserted. We scouted out the place and discovered access to the campsite showers toilets with area to do washing and….hot water. It did’nt take us long to decide that is where we would be staying the night.

The day was beautiful and sunny and with a table and bench outside it is everything we could hope for. How fortunate for us. We can spend the afternoon doing washing, relaxing and writing my journal.

Tomorrow I plan to walk 19kms to Lescar (Pau) then on Tuesday hitch to Anglet between Bayonne and Biarritz where I have booked an room through Airbnb with a coupon I had for being a “Superhost” Erhardt plans to continue on to Lacommande and the onto St Jean pied de Port.

In Pau the GR 653 takes a sharp turn south to Col du Somport. I want to carry on westward to the Atlantic coast and see  what I will do from there. As yet I am undecided. From Bayonne to Santiago is around 800kms so I am nearing halfway.

Monday 18th of October.

In the morning we put our fee for staying at the deserted Municipal Gîte in an envelope and on our way out of town posted it in the letter box at the mayor’s office.

For the past 3 days Erhard and myself have been walking together. Today we covered 21kms to Lescar in 5 hours. At 72 years of age Erhard walks like a locomotive. If I stop to take a pee, in an instant he is 200metres ahead. When I take a quick photo he is suddenly 100metres further on. Today after walking for 3 hours I had to remind him that perhaps we should take break and have something to drink. He set out on his grand walk from Nice as previously (few years ago) he had walked from Vienna to Nice. This time his walk is to Burgos. He inspires me with endless fascinating stories about long distance hiking in Germany, Austria, France and even Israel. While I appreciated the advantages of maintaining a fast walking tempo with Erhard I sometimes felt inhibited about stopping and chatting to passers-by or dawdling to admire the scenery as inevitably I ended up lagging behind.

We found the Vival superette in Lescar at 12:41, 4 minutes before it closed which was fortunate as it allowed us to buy lunch and eat together before Erhard continued on for another 15kms to Lacommande. But for me this is the end of line along this particular route. Tomorrow I hitch-hike to Anglet (near Biarritz) where I have booked a Airbnb room for 3 days. Three days in which to consider whether or not I want to continue my walk for another 800kms to Santiago.

I look forward to visiting Biarritz for the first time, I’ve been told it is a beautiful seaside city. Above all I want to give my feet a treat, walk barefoot on the beach, smell the salty air and feel the magnificence of the Atlantic Ocean.