Wednesday 22nd of September.

The evening in Lodève was spent visiting St. Fulcrun cathedral. After wandering about the vast and impressive cathedral with its apse, various aisles and chapels, I could not get out. The main entrance was locked! Eventually I found my way out through an inconspicuous side door which led to the parsonage and rectory gardens.

I left Lodève this morning with my wet underpants and socks hanging out to dry, flailing on the outside of my backpack, showing them off around the whole town as I went in circles trying to find the way out. Even asking the locals how to find the route, the GR653, didn’t deliver desired results. Eventually I resorted to consulting Google maps and easily found my way, passing the couple who were arguing the night before in the Gite at Saint-Jean-de-la-Blaquière.

Once across Montifort the 12th century Roman bridge and on the right path, the walking was delightful. The air was fresh and breezy, a fine sunny day was emerging as I went my way through the forest. It was a constant but steady ascent, I got into my stride relishing the cheery morning. The bustle and sounds of the town faded and at times I stopped and listened to the silence, only the gentle sounds of nature could be heard , the cry of a crow and the soft rustling of leaves. I’m sure the wild boar could hear my footsteps, even though muffled by the carpet of pine needles. I saw signs of their spoor but they kept themselves well hidden. A few hours of walking uphill brought rewards of magnificent vistas of the rolling hills with an occasional house and property sprinkled on the landscape. The moments of solitude and peace and the feeling of being totally immersed in the countryside are rewarding beyond measure and inspired me to break out into spontaneous song. I arrived at the Gîte in Val de Nize around 2pm whereas I expected only to be there about 4pm. My pace has picked up, aches and pains have disappeared, I am keen to start covering distances of 18 to 20kms per day. Here in Val de Nize there is no phone reception and as I was early I have a moment lie down and enjoy the quietness of the hamlet and write my journal. Today I have got a room with dinner and breakfast which costs 40€. I look forward to a refreshing shower and exchanging my walking shoes for sandals.

Luc, a Canadian, and Daniel from Poitiers in France showed up later, they had met in Saint Gilles the first stop after Arles and since then they had been walking together. Veronique our hostess cooked a huge stew and I ate all I could. The banter around the dinner table was lively and entertaining, Luc and Daniel had both walked different variations of the Camino de Santiago and had an infinite supply of wonderful stories.

This morning after a typical French breakfast of bread, jam and coffee I set off at a leisurely pace stopping on route at Notre Dame de Nize, a tiny secluded church alongside a cascading stream. Further along I came across La Fonteine des Yeux, a source which is reputed to have healing qualities for the eyes. I reached Lunas at 9:30 where I enjoyed a cappuccino on a sunny terrace.

• Camino