At 7:00am on Sunday morning Bernard gave me an encouraging send off and I began my day’s journey to La Salvetat. A couple of hours later my legs felt weary and my shoulders ached. Not really having any choice I pressed on promising myself a lengthy lunch break when I reached lac du Laouzas.

The final 4km stretch from La Moutouse to La Salvetat was down hill along a charming country road. Knowing I was approaching my destination I found a spring in my step and trundled happily along. Upon reaching Salvetat I was surprised to find an unexpected steep and lengthy uphill climb to reach the village. I could only manage to put one foot in front of another and my backpack seemed to get heavier and heavier. As I entered the village I skirted around a car in the middle of the road and the route just kept going up and up and up, my only consolation that I was already in the village and soon I would be at the gite where I could have a shower deposit my backpack and find a place to eat. I was hungry. Only to find that the parked car I had passed earlier had hidden the red and white stripes indicating the way to the centre of the village. I had taken the wrong route and had to go back to then find a steep flight of stairs leading to the Office du Tourisme where I could find the key to the gite. Being Sunday the Tourist Office was closed, however when booking I had been given instructions and the combination code on how to find the key in a locked letter box.

Somewhat revived after having a shower and after doing my washing I set off back down the steps to find a restaurant. I was famished. Being Sunday I checked on Google to make sure which of the four restos in the village were open. At the bottom of the steps I realised I had forgotten my face mask and had to go back up again, pick up my mask and go down only to discover not a single restaurant was open. I was starving. While confused and looking on my tablet to see if I could find any other place in the vicinity to get a bite to eat, a guy on a scooter passed me, then stopped and turned around and asked me if he could help. In a fleeting moment while passing me he must have seen desperation written all over me. I asked where I could find something to eat. “Mmmmnn that’s difficult” he said, “Everything is closed. But maybe Auberge de la Resse is open, but that is 20 minute walk, uphill.” My heart sank, he said, “Wait here I will go and go and check for you.” And zoomed off in the direction in which he had come. I already started walking in the direction thinking it has to be open, it is my last chance. However 5 minutes later he came back saying, “Desolé c’est fermé.” Closed. Even with his full face helmet on I could see the look genuine pity in his eyes. “Oh! Well that’s just too bad” I said and thanked him for stopping and taking the trouble to go and check for me. His kindness was touching and lifted my deflated spirits but still hungry and with legs of rubber went back up the endless stairs to the gîte. In the kitchen I found a half a packet of spaghetti which I immediately cooked and garnished it with some mayonnaise which was in the fridge. Feeling satisfied and before falling soundly asleep I decided the next day I would take a break.

The next morning I bought some supplies from the Spar which opened at 8:00am. This time climbing the stairs back to the gîte certainly went a lot easier.  I had a hearty breakfast, chocolate croissants, yoghurt with fruit and nuts and coffee. Then went to the Tourist Office at 10am to thank the lady who had left the key, disposable sheets and instructions on how to get to the gîte. I booked to stay another night and got a well earned stamp in my credencial.

Monday 27^th September.

I had a days rest, wrote postcards while sitting on a terrace and went for a snooze in the afternoon. In the evening Jean-Maurice turned up. He went shopping and generously bought plenty of food and wine for both of us. We prepared a meal together in the communal kitchen and had a most enjoyable evening.

• Camino